Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
