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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.